East Dulwich to Fulham on a Sunday wasn’t quite the short hop across town I’d anticipated. We decided to break up the 10 miles and 1 ½ hour bus journey with a bit off Sunday lunch in the Ship pub followed by a 40 minute walk to the ground.
Once fed and watered we hadn’t left a lot of time to walk the remaining leg, but made in time after a pretty fast passed walk along the Thames Path to the ground.
The final walk to Craven Cottage along the river through Autumnal tree lined avenues has got to be one the most sophisticated approaches to any ground in the country.
We took our place, in the front row of the Hammersmith End. Sitting in the front row you are actually below pitch level, your eyes being almost level with the pitch, offering a slightly bazar but great up close and personal experience of the game.

Fulham is the only club in the country with a Neutral zone, it’s past history of having no segregation in the Putney End and having very well-behaved fans meant the FA gave Fulham special dispensation to allow for this. Fulham is the only club currently in the UK to have such an area.
The 25,700 capacity means the atmosphere can pick up pretty well in places, but overall can be a little tepid over the course of 90 minutes. The age of the ground also means facilities aren’t exactly fantastic but adds to the character and charm, for example the corridor like toilets are a bit of a squeeze.
Craven Cottage is a fantastically Victorian ground, built in 1896 on the site of a 300 year old hunting lodge. Although the original cottage is no more one of the most charming features of the ground is the Pavillion Cottage which nestles neatly in the corner of the stadium. Dating back to 1905 the Cottage was built due to an oversight in the Stevenage Road Stand (as it was then); changing rooms had been left out of the final plans.
The Cottage was traditionally used by the players' families and friends who sit on the balcony to watch the game, but the club now sell those seats at a premium rate.
All in all Craven Cottage makes a top class away day.